The Gear Maintenance Guide You Actually Need
Share
The Gear Maintenance Guide You Actually Need
Late January is when I always get around to properly sorting the outdoor kit. The festive chaos has settled, spring feels just close enough to be worth preparing for, and there's something satisfying about fixing and cleaning things when you're not desperately trying to use them. Last year I ignored all this and spent April discovering that my pizza oven had a wasp nest, my barbecue burners were half blocked, and my favourite cast iron skillet had developed rust spots that made me genuinely sad.
This year, I'm being sensible. Here's what actually needs doing, stripped of all the overcomplicated advice that assumes you've got endless time and a fully equipped workshop.
The Pizza Oven Deep Clean
If you've been using your pizza oven through winter, it probably looks like a crime scene. Burnt flour on the floor, carbon buildup on the dome, that general coating of use that makes it work brilliantly but look terrible.

The floor needs scraping properly. I use a metal scraper or even just a paint scraper from the DIY shop, getting all the burnt debris off the cooking surface. Once it's clear of big bits, fire it up empty and let it burn hot for 30 minutes. This carbonises anything remaining and makes the oven essentially self cleaning. Let it cool completely, then brush out the ash. The floor should be back to clean stone or whatever your oven base is made from.
The dome doesn't need much. That black carbon layer is actually protective and helps with heat retention. Unless it's flaking off in chunks that might land on your food, leave it alone. If it is flaking, a soft brush when the oven's completely cold will sort it.
The door and exterior metalwork benefit from a wipe down with a damp cloth. Check any joints or welds for cracks, though if you've got a decent oven these should be fine. The chimney or flue opening sometimes gets blocked with soot or even bird nests if you've not used it for a while. A quick check now saves frustration later.
For gas pizza ovens, check the burner for blockages. Spiders love crawling into gas jets during quiet periods. A thin wire or the cleaning tool that should have come with your oven clears them out. Test fire it before you put it away to make sure the flame pattern is even.
Barbecue Rehabilitation
Barbecues take more abuse than most outdoor kit and January is when that shows. Grease buildup, rust spots starting, burners that aren't performing quite right. All fixable with an afternoon of attention.

Start by removing the grates and giving them a proper scrub. Hot soapy water and a wire brush for cast iron or stainless steel. If they're really bad, soak them for an hour first. Cast iron grates might need re seasoning if you've scrubbed them back to bare metal. Thin layer of cooking oil, put them in a hot oven or back on the barbecue for an hour. They'll come out with that dark, slightly glossy finish that means they're protected.
Gas burners need checking carefully. Remove them if possible and look at the gas jets. Any blockages need clearing. The burner tubes sometimes accumulate grease and debris that affects flame pattern. A pipe cleaner or small bottle brush works well for getting inside tubes. Check the venturi tubes where air mixes with gas, these can get blocked by insects or debris.
The grease tray underneath is probably disgusting. This is non negotiable cleaning. Old grease is a fire hazard and attracts animals. Scrape it out, wash the tray properly, consider lining it with foil for next time to make your life easier.
For charcoal barbecues, empty all old ash completely. Check the vents aren't blocked. Look at the bowl for rust spots, especially around the bottom vents where water tends to collect. Minor rust can be wire brushed and covered with high heat paint. Serious rust means you're looking at replacement, but most barbecues will go years before that's necessary.
Check all the hardware. Nuts and bolts work loose over time. Wheels might need tightening. Lid hinges sometimes need a drop of oil. Nothing complicated, just basic maintenance that prevents bigger problems.
Cast Iron and Cookware Care
Cast iron is brilliant until you neglect it, then it becomes a restoration project. If you've been using cast iron outdoors all winter, it probably needs attention.
Rust spots happen, especially on pieces that live outside. For light rust, scrub with salt and oil using a paper towel. The salt acts as gentle abrasive, the oil protects as you clean. For heavier rust, you might need steel wool or a wire brush, but try gentler methods first.
Once you've dealt with any rust, the pan needs re seasoning. Wash it properly, dry it completely, then apply the thinnest possible layer of cooking oil. Wipe off any excess because too much oil creates a sticky surface rather than a protective one. Put it in a hot oven or on the barbecue upside down for an hour. Let it cool, repeat if needed.
Stainless steel cookware just needs a good wash and dry. Aluminium pieces benefit from a paste of baking soda and water for any staining or discolouration. Most outdoor cookware is pretty robust, it just needs basic cleaning and checking for damage.
Tool and Accessory Audit
This is the boring bit that everyone skips and then regrets in May when they discover half their tools are broken or missing.

Check all your barbecue tools. Tongs that don't spring properly anymore need replacing. Spatulas with wobbly heads are dangerous. Basting brushes that are more bristle than brush have had their day. Be ruthless, these things aren't expensive enough to justify keeping inadequate ones.
Thermometers need testing. The cheap way is to stick them in ice water, they should read zero degrees, then boiling water, they should read 100 degrees. If they're way off, replace them. Inaccurate thermometers are worse than no thermometers because they give you false confidence.

Wire brushes for cleaning grates wear out and nobody notices until bristles start coming off. New brush, every season or two, is sensible. The bristles ending up in food is a genuine hazard.
Pizza peels and turning tools, check the handles are secure. Wooden ones sometimes split with age and moisture changes. Metal ones are usually fine but check for rust.
Grilling baskets, check the hinges and clasps still work properly. Anything that doesn't close securely is frustrating to use and likely to dump your food.
Fire Equipment and Accessories
If you've got fire bowls, firepits, or anything that deals with actual flames, they need checking properly.
Empty all ash and debris completely. Old ash holds moisture and causes rust from the inside. Check the bowl or pit for cracks, especially if it's ceramic or stone. Metal ones check for rust, burn through spots, or warping.
Grates or cooking surfaces that sit over fires take serious heat stress. Look for warping, cracks, or areas that are burning through. These often need replacing more frequently than other outdoor kit.
Pokers, log holders, ash tools, all the bits that live alongside the fire, check they're not rusting away or becoming unsafe. These get ignored because they seem simple but a poker that breaks when you're moving a burning log is properly dangerous.
Covers and Protection
The most boring maintenance task is checking your equipment covers, but it matters for everything else to last.

Look at all your covers for tears, holes, or areas where the waterproofing has failed. A damaged cover is worse than no cover because it gives you false confidence while letting weather in. Small tears can be patched or taped, large damage means replacement time.
Check the fastenings. Straps that don't secure properly mean covers blow off in wind. Elastic that's perished doesn't hold. Clips that have broken need replacing before the next storm makes your equipment cover a kite.
Clean the covers themselves. Most can be brushed down or washed with mild soap and water. Let them dry completely before storing or putting back on equipment. Damp covers create mould and smell terrible.
The Storage Audit
How you're storing things matters as much as the things themselves. Late January is perfect for reorganising your outdoor cooking storage.
Check where you're keeping charcoal and wood. Damp fuel is useless fuel. If your storage isn't keeping things dry, you need a better solution. Sealed containers, raised off the ground, under cover.
Gas bottles need checking for damage or rust, especially around the valve area. The date stamp tells you when they need recertifying. Storing them upright in a ventilated area matters for safety.
Tools and accessories benefit from having actual homes rather than being thrown in a box. Hooks, racks, or even just a designated shelf means you can find things when you need them and they stay in better condition.
What Actually Needs Replacing
This is where you need to be honest. Some things are worth maintaining, some things have reached the end.
Burners that are burning through need replacing for safety. Grates that are falling apart won't last another season. Thermometers that give random readings are worse than useless. Tools that are actually broken rather than just dirty should go.
But a lot of stuff just needs cleaning and attention. That pizza oven that looks terrible probably works perfectly. The barbecue with surface rust might have years left. The cast iron with some discolouration is absolutely fine once it's re seasoned.
The difference between equipment that lasts decades and equipment that needs replacing after a few years is mostly this sort of maintenance. An hour now, in late January when you're not desperately trying to cook lunch for eight people, saves money and frustration later.
The Spring Ready Test
Once you've done all this, do a test run before spring properly arrives. Fire up the pizza oven, check it heats evenly. Light the barbecue, make sure all burners work properly. Test the smoker seals. Try out the fire bowl.

Finding problems now means you can fix them calmly, order parts if needed, even get things professionally serviced if necessary. Finding problems in April when you've invited people over for the first barbecue of the year is significantly more stressful.
Nobody enjoys maintenance for its own sake. But there's genuine satisfaction in having equipment that works properly when you want it, that looks decent rather than neglected, that'll last years rather than seasons. An afternoon in January sorting this out pays back every time you use your outdoor kit for the rest of the year.
And honestly, there's something quite meditative about cleaning and fixing things. No screens, no demands on your attention, just the simple satisfaction of making things work properly again. Plus you get to feel virtuously organised, which is essentially what late January is for.